Category Archives: From the Workshop

November 23, 2011

Video: An Introduction to Planes from Time Warp Tool Works

By ChrisHasFlair

This video introduces our moulding planes and demonstrates how to hone the blade and make adjustments.  If you have purchased planes, please take a few minutes to watch the video.  (We really wanted to get this video out before the planes started arriving but the mail service under-promised and over-delivered so packages started arriving three days before we expected.)

Here are a few things that I didn’t mention in the video:

  1. It is okay for the blades to be concave on the bevel side which rests on the bed.  This will ensure that it seats properly and the wedge will flatten it.
  2. Even quartersawn cherry moves.  Although we did our best to match the profiles of the blades and soles, some fine-tuning may be required.  Slip stones or sandpaper wrapped around a dowel work best for the hollow blades and flat stones work fine for the round blades.  The blade should fit into the plane without being forced.  If the blade does not fit easily, material needs to be removed from the inside of the cheeks.  A float is the best tool for the job, but a file or sandpaper glued to a rigid substrate can also work.
  3. We are here for you.  We appreciate your support and are happy to receive any feedback you may have.

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October 13, 2011

The Production Line Stops Here

By ChrisHasFlair

Building hundreds of moulding planes is no small task. It starts with a trip to the lumber yard where I have to select the lumber. I sort through a few hundred board feet of cherry and load the best of it into my truck.

Tip: it is often recommended to bring a block plane to the lumber yard to reveal some of the grain below the rough-sawn exterior. However, if you are planing end grain, especially the thick paint often used to identify the species, O1 plane blades don’t last long at all. I think my freshly-sharpened blade lasted for about half a dozen boards before it began to get dull. After a dozen, it could do little more than chamfer an edge. I’m glad that I had the forethought to bring a float to reveal the end grain.

Once home, I cut the 12-foot lengths of cherry into manageable sizes. The wood is then stickered and allowed to adjust to my shop’s climate. Next, I take the moulding plane blanks to my bandsaw and resaw them. I use the cabinetmaker’s triangle to ensure that I can reassemble the blanks for the best grain continuity. Then, I sticker the wood in my shop and let it reacclimatize. Meanwhile, I cut out the wedges and shape the pins. After a week, I thickness the stock and make the cuts for the bed and breast. Here, you see some moulding plane blanks awaiting assembly.

As is typical of production-type work, gluing up this many planes gives me the opportunity to get pretty good at gluing up efficiently. I have started using my favourite 1″ glue spreader, but later moved up to a 2″ glue spreader and reduced the time required to apply the glue by 25%.

Once the clamps come off, the planes will be completed on an individual basis, one at a time. The bodies need to be cleaned up, wedges fitted, soles profiled, and bodies detailed if required.

I’ve enjoyed the work so far and I know that the most enjoyable is yet to come!

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September 25, 2011

Breaking the Mould for Version Two

By ChrisHasFlair

The first working moulding planes we made looked like the one below.  They worked well and were easy to adjust.  I was happy with the concept and eager to hear some feedback.

Here are the pros and cons of this first version compiled from all the feedback we received.

Pros:

  • Easier to adjust than traditional side-escapement planes;
  • The tapered blade held its setting without the need for excessive pressure from the wedge;
  • The full-width iron at the top meant more metal to strike so there was less chance of mushrooming the end of the blade (typical of tanged irons);
  • Performed as well as traditional side-escapement planes;
  • The new wedge design provided a solid, square striking surface on top and the concave fits the finger nicely when removing it;
  • Felt more agile than traditional side-escapement planes;
  • Were friendly to left-handed users;
  • Looked very sleek and modern;
  • Users liked the look of quartersawn cherry over traditional quartersawn beech.

Cons:

  • Edges were too hard and made the plane uncomfortable for prolonged use;
  • Plane body felt a little too small and delicate;
  • Acute angles where the hollow profile met the blindside bevels seemed too fragile;
  •  The finial atop the wedge looked prone to breakage due to short grain;
  • Looked different than traditional planes;
  • Without the blade flush to either side of the plane, it could not be used upright aside a vertical element (a very specialized and rarely-required function).
We analysed the data and designed version two, our current offering.  (Actually, more like version 5.)


Version Two

I treated these planes to a full detailing.  Along the top edges, I added bevels and wrapped them around the toe and heel, terminating at elegant stop cuts.  With a focus on making these planes affordable, we will be adding this detailing to planes by request.

To further increase the heft and size of the planes we increased both the height of the planes and the thickness of the cheeks.  Beefing up the cheeks also resulted in stronger, more substantial blindside bevels.

We kept the wedge profile we had designed for The Hand Tool School.  We have yet to see a wedge break in use, and with proper technique I don’t see this being a problem.  Because our planes use tapered irons, a lot of wedging force is not required to secure the blade.

To see if there was any validity to the concern of breakage, I broke one intentionally.  It took four overly-aggressive blows with a 10-1/2 oz steel hammer directly on the tip of the finial.  By that time, the wedge was seated so tightly that it took many strikes to the plane’s heel to loosen.  I drove the wedge in and freed it again and again.  It took an average of eight heavy knocks from my 2-pound dead-blow hammer to the plane’s heel to loosen the wedge.  Here is a picture of the wedge after about 40 blows from my steel hammer.  It still functions fine and looks so-so.

What We Will Be Selling

Starting September 30, opening day at Woodworking In America, we will be taking orders for  pairs of #6 and #8 hollow and round planes as well as rabbet planes.  We will also have two packages: a set of 3 consisting of a pair of #6 planes and a rabbet plane; and a set of 5 consisting of a pair each of #6 and #8 planes and a rabbet plane.  Pricing will be announced shortly.

We will be taking orders from all interested but orders for Hand Tool School students will be filled first.  Click here to learn more about or  join The Hand Tool School.

I love these planes – they are beautiful and feel great.  I know these are good because I don’t want to let them go.

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